Sunday, September 02, 2007

60 Waves

Back to T-street again today and the southwest swell is still in full effect. I'm prepared: contacts in, toes taped against fin ulcers, sunscreen absolutely coating my face. I paddle out with the goal of not coming in until I caught 50 waves, which if you think about it for a sec, is a huge number. Turned out to be a snap. At first, I sat at Beach House (at the south end of T-street) and had a peak to myself.

An hour later later, I moved over to Main Peak and caught many more -- longer ones this time, with longer paddles in between. My mind started to drift after wave 36 or 37, and I lost the count, but I caught a slew more before I came in for some iced tea, cheese and crackers, and more sunscreen.

Then I was out there again for another 90 minutes. How many did I get today? More than 60, that's for sure. Enough that my legs started to cramp and my arms are now noodles.

By far, this has been the best swell of the summer.

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